Major Coolant Loss - Page 4

MikkiJayne · #31 25th January 2023, 10:03 AM

On a V8, no. The minimum is to take the bumper off and swing the front panel out 30 degrees or so, but its not fun to work in there like that. I take the complete front panel off and swing the AC condenser out of the way instead to get complete access.

steamship · #32 25th January 2023, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The minimum is to take the bumper off and swing the front panel out 30 degrees or so,

I was thinking that. Who knows what I'll find.

ainarssems · #33 25th January 2023, 11:45 AM

Must be tighter clearances of FL. I was doing belts on PF without touching bumper.

MikkiJayne · #34 25th January 2023, 01:41 PM

You can just about change the aux belt on an FL with the front panel in place, but I'm 99% sure you can't get the tensioner out, and then you can't get the snub mount bracket off which is necessary to get to the timing belt.

I think the PF alloy covers can be removed reasonably easily with the front in place, but I wouldn't like to try and remove the crank pulley bolt with such restricted access.

I'm going to stick to taking the front off

steamship · #35 25th January 2023, 04:35 PM

Question for MJ or anyone else whose done this job, but what do you use to block the various pipes whilst working on the rest of the engine?

I had a proper look around the entire front earlier, as I had only been disconnecting the two water pipes prior on the left side of the radiator. So far, I've identified two pipes for the power steering cooler (very front), two pipes for the aircon cooler (middle) and two pipes for the transmission cooler (through the main radiator).

MikkiJayne · #36 25th January 2023, 05:49 PM

PS pipes I made a couple of plugs specifically for them, but either an M10 bolt with a plain shank and a couple of hose clamps, or use brake hose clamps to pinch the pipes shut. It'll dribble everywhere which is normal so have lots of blue roll / rags to hand.

Trans cooler just let it drip out. You'll lose about 250ml which can be put back in to the top cooler line socket with a tube and small funnel.

Don't disconnect the AC as that's under pressure (and utterly seized). With the condenser unbolted from the rad you can swing it round so it lies flat on the left side under the abs block etc. I'd recommend taping some cardboard over both sides to protect it.

Or, leave it all connected and put two 8" pieces of M8 threaded rod in the chassis legs to support it, and just move it forward. As noted, personally I feel thats like wallpapering the hallway through the letterbox, but I have the facilities to take it all to bits. Its a bit different on a driveway outside!

steamship · #37 25th January 2023, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

PS pipes ... an M10 bolt with a plain shank and a couple of hose clamps. It'll dribble everywhere which is normal so have lots of blue roll / rags to hand.

I was wondering if I could do something like that as it was all I could think of.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Trans cooler just let it drip out. You'll lose about 250ml which can be put back in to the top cooler line socket with a tube and small funnel.

Fair enough. I remember you mentioned topping it up in one of the WITW threads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Don't disconnect the AC as that's under pressure (and utterly seized). With the condenser unbolted from the rad you can swing it round so it lies flat on the left side under the abs block etc. I'd recommend taping some cardboard over both sides to protect it.

That saves me the time even trying it. Cardboard it is, and I've already sprayed every bolt at the front so hopefully they come out without a fight.

This should be interesting.

MikkiJayne · #38 25th January 2023, 07:15 PM

Oh, make sure to order new Oetiker clamps for the PS lines 2x N10255501 as worm-drive clamps don't work for some reason - they always leak.

Also new o-rings for the trans cooler lines 2x N90666001 as they will be pretty crusty and squished. Make sure to thoroughly clean the cooler line sockets on the rad with scotchbrite or similar and lube the o-rings with ATF so they don't get pinched when going back in.

I keep both in stock if you don't have easy access to TPS or a dealership parts counter

steamship · #39 26th January 2023, 12:00 PM

Great to know about these little bits (and their part numbers). Problem at the moment is I don't know if I have them or not. I've been buying bits and pieces for years now, so have lots of little boxes with lots of little jiffy envelopes in them... which I never bothered to write on them what they were for.

Have a lot more to do before I get back to reconstructing that area, so I can do some rummaging today as the promised sun today has turned to rain. It'll also give my neck a rest, as I stuffed that up again.

steamship · #40 29th January 2023, 12:41 PM

Rubbish photo, but it's a start, which I finished around 6pm last night.

Only issues I ran across were a wrecked connector to the horn, one rusted bolt at the bottom of the radiator, a half missing plastic air guide down the right hand side of the radiator (which I've ordered from A8parts) and the small air guide to the gear oil cooler being pushed out of the way, so not even doing its job. The plastic bags in the photo are to protect the electrical connectors, the red rag wrapped around the plugged power steering pipes, and the green plastic bag contains the aircon radiator, wrapped in cardboard and supported by blocks underneath so there's no pressure on the pipes. The thick black pipe running across the front is all the gubbings for the LPG system. Not doing anything today as had to tie the bonnet down to a car ramp because of the wind.

Also managed to find my o-rings MJ referenced (N90666001), although mine are the superseded N90666003 ones. Just as well I double checked ETKA, as I was about to order them. Still hunting for the Oetiker clamps as I'm sure I bought ones like that.