Aftermarket IForces alarm with remote start installation in D2

[ainarssems]

Not much progress with all the rain. The immobilizer bypass module was not working as the coil was too big therefore too far away from the coil in the car and not reading/sending. So the only thing I have done today was to make my own coil as the picture below when rain stopped. I used 0.375mm enameled wire to make this and did about 25 windings. I don't think the thickness of wire or exact number of windings make much difference, thinner wire is easier to damage but thicker wire takes more space and make coil thicker if you want to do many windings. Higher number of windings will give better signal but again will make coil bigger. I think 0.25 -0.5mm wire is best and about 20-30 windings. Anyway now with DIY coil it works as it should.



The problem I am having is that if I wire it so that door locking is connected to door handle lock contacts to activate OEM alarm at the same time then OEM alarm goes off with remote start. So my options are either to wire door locking to the interior door lock switch in which case OEM alarm will not be activated at the same time or wire it so that doors are unlocked and alarm disabled when remote starting but then doors will remain open while engine is running with remote start. I have tried the wire coming from alarm disable button in B pillar to disable alarm but that does not work. I think it only works if you press it before locking, not if it's already been locked but will need to check that I have wired it all wired and programmed correctly. There should be a way to disarm OEM alarm without unlocking doors but might involve using extra relays, still need to figure this out.


Also still need to find a place to pass wires from inside of car to under bonnet for bonnet switch, siren and temperature sender.

[David's8]

Ah, plug and play its not!

[ainarssems]

Well i have finished the install in the way that I am happy with now with couple of changes in the process. All works a s it should. I have not received my login reader yet, it's lost somewhere in the post so I have not coded extra transponder for immobilizer so remote start only works when I put my only key in bypass module. The login reader was posted on 21st November, I got tracking number but it only shows that it was generated and no further entries. Seller said will post another one if it has not arrived by Wednesday.

Ia I have made couple of changes from the original plan so I will start the write up from beginning and will try to do some videos with it the action and showing extra functions.

[David's8]

Fantastic! Cant wait - though I am not sure that some of this is beyond me. Cutting into immobiliser circuits etc makes me nervous....

[ainarssems]

Sorry for delays, it's been busy week between overtime at work, getting windscreen fitted on A6, putting it in for MOT and several PC's and laptops coming in for repair. I was hoping to fit the system to A6 as well during Friday/Saturday this week, but have forgotten that long time ago I had agreed to work Friday night this week. So have not even started on A6. The plan is to use S8 for now while I get it fitted to A6.

Anyhow it is all fitted to S8, my login reader has finally arrived and I have coded couple of extra transponders for immobilizer one of which is fitted in immobilizer bypass unit. I did the first real world test going to work Friday night and setting daily start for 05:50 so that it is warmed up at 6am when I get out of work.

First of all while the range is advertised as up to 1500m in open field it failed to communicate about 100m away inside the warehouse. To be fair phone reception is also very poor inside warehouse having full strength signal outside warehouse and only 1 bar or none loosing connection all together inside. This is do to the warehouse being covered with metal profile sheets on the outside. Walking to the window restores communication. However this is not much of a problem as when setting daily start time you only need to be in range when setting it up, command is then sent to alarm unit and you can be on the other side of the world when the actual start happens. So when I walked out of the work with outside temp -3C car was running, defrosted, nice and warm inside and heated seats nice and warm as well. So I was driving away in comfort while everybody else was still scraping ice off the windows. The only thing is that I have not considered rear window heater so that does not come with remote start, something to consider but should be easy enough to implement using one of extra output channels. Any way with the interior warm it thawed very quickly when I turned on rear window heater.

I am starting with the guide now so it should be up shortly.

[ainarssems]

I fitted the alarm unit and immobilizer bypass unit behind drivers knee panel, siren and temperature sensor under right side scuttle trim and aerial on the windscreen next to mirror. Alarm LED and valet switch in the empty switch cover in center console. Shock sensor fitted to the dashboard beam. Also fitted extra relay next to fuse carrier for immobilizer function to cut the fuel pump when armed. Wires to the central locking unit follow the wiring harness already in the car and go under the drivers side door sill trims, then across the car to the left side under the rear seat, up along the wheel well and in the boot.

The work on the car required to do all the connections:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove knee panel to fit the unit
3. Remove fuse holder to access fuel pump wire
4. Remove steering wheel and steering column trim to access ignition switch, light switch and immobilizer coil
5. Remove instrument cluster to connect handbrake switch and engine speed wires at the back of instrument cluster
6. Remove door sill trims on drivers side and rear seats, both base and backrest to route wires from alarm unit to the central locking unit in the boot.
7. Remove left hand side trim in the boot to access central locking unit.
8. Route the wires to under the hood for siren, bonnet switch and temperature sensor.
9. Remove drivers side A-pillar trim to route cable from the aerial to the unit.

Refit everything and reconnect the battery after installation.

Next post some installation pictures.

[ainarssems]

Wires grouped and bundled together and labelled, this was later extended and also modified couple of times in the car so not that tidy anymore while I was testing but if you know which wires will go where then doing it like this will make it easier and tidier



Picture of the unit and the bunch of cables behind drivers knee panel and ventilation duct.



Extra relay for cutting power supply to fuel pump when armed




Alarm LED and hidden vallet switch




Aerial and call button



Siren under the scuttle trim, and ground connection for siren and temperature sensor in red rectangle on the windscreen wiper mechanism



Positive siren wire and combined bonnet switch/temperature sensor wire entering the car. I just taped the wires to the long screwdriver and pushed it inside the car by the existing cable grommet and through the noise insulation on the inside.



And here it is entering the car inside





Next time final wiring explaining which wire goes where.

[ainarssems]

This is for PF A/S8 and some connections will be different for FL cars

Lets start with the big 18 pin connector on the alarm

Pin 1. Diesel glow plug wait, not used for petrol

2. Brake input, negative, this is connected to the handbrake switch, I cinnected it to the wire coming in the instrument cluster but could be also connected to the switch by the handbrake lever. This prevents remote start unless handbrake is applied. In my case it was green connector at the dash, pin 20, green and yellow wire but will probably be different on FL car

3. Brake input positive, not used

4. Boot trigger, negative, connected to the central locking unit 16 pin connector pin 10, red and black wire

5.Door trigger, negative, central locking unit, 16 pin connector, pin 6, brown and black wire

6. Door trigger , positive not used

7. Bonnet trigger, negative + temperature sensor, under the bonnet to the bonnet switch, the other wire from temperature sensor goes to ground.

8.Rpm signal, there are several possibilities to use this with different programming, like voltage and alternator detection. I have chosen most reliable and accurate actual engine speed signal going from ECU to dash, this was red connector on the instrument cluster, pin 18, yellow wire for PF car

9.System ground, connected to the chassis

10.Starter output 2, not used

11. Arm output, not used

12. Disarm output, negative, used to drive relay for fuel pump. I was not going to use this but at the end used included relay to disable fuel pump when armed. Cut the wire going from fuel pump fuse No 1 in blue block and inserted the relay to connect it.

13. Programmable output, not used but might use for boot release or something else

14. Programmable output, not used, can be used for extra functions

15.Programmable output, not used, can be used for extra functions

16. Programmable output, not used, can be used for extra functions

17. Programmable output, could be used as ACC2 to turn on rear window heater for example.

18.Immobilizer bypass output, negative, becaomes grounded on remote start, connected to black wire on the immobilizer bypass unit.


5 Pin connector

Pin 1. Parking light power supply, I actually connected this inside alarm unit to the positive input on heavy gauge wire connector +12V input to reduce amount of wires.

2. & 3.Parking light output connected to the main light switch, green/ black and green/red wire on the light switch.

4. +12V siren output to the siren under the hood

5. Constant +12V input

6 pin central locking connector.

This was connected to the wire going from the central locking switch on the inside of drivers door going to the central locking unit using the diagram below. Connection was made by the central locking pump, 12 pin connector, pin 9, green /blue wire



I have connected some of these wire inside the unit like the picture below, also drew +12V supply wire for parking lights in yellow as it was not there when picture was taken.



Heavy gauge wire conector

2 red wires +12V constant supply to the ignition switch also 2 red wires

Purple wire to the starter wire at the ignition switch, black/red wire at the switch

Pink ignition 1 wire to the black wire at the switch

Pink/white ignition 2 wire not used

Yellow ACC wire to the yellow/black ACC wire at the switch

Wire loops

As it's automatic car and I used rpm detection they both need to remain uncut but I removed them and connected inside the unit using couple of jumpers as seen in red rectangles in the picture below.




Time for bed now, yes it's 1:30pm now but I have to be at work at 10pm - 6am . Will post some wiring diagrams from ELSA tomorrow and explain immobilizer bypass in bit more detail tomorrow.

[The_Laird]

[steamship]

That is some piece of work. Not only on the external wiring, but also rejigging the insides of the unit as well.