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  #11  
Old 22nd May 2023, 08:32 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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If it's the same fault I had (or similar) you can remove and short-circuit the relay to start the car, it's quick and easy to test that.
I ran mine like that, with just a wire instead of the relay, for 2 and a half years until I could get it fixed as part of an MJ overhaul.
(Admittedly mostly during Covid times so it got very little use)
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e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #12  
Old 22nd May 2023, 09:26 AM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donp38 View Post
Hi.

Yep, I was kinda sure!....but now I am unclear if that was correct..

However, now completely dead.

I turn to crank, the battery light goes off on the dash but no click or any noise.
It's been a while since I had D2 but I am pretty sure that lights on the dash should stay on while you are cranking. If they go out the there is not enough power available which would suggest bad or flat battery or poor connection from battery.

Have you checked battery voltage at rest and while trying to crank and also voltage by the starter?
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  #13  
Old 22nd May 2023, 12:16 PM
donp38 donp38 is offline
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You are right.
Working alone yesterday so not able to check at starter.

The battery is new (three mths old), and sits on a Ctech so have assumed it is fine. Will check that...goodness!..

Have we a part number for the F125 and suggested supplier?
I think I should get all bits and bobs and when I get another pair of hands at the weekend we can get to the solution...somehow..

I Also need to sort that jumper idea so that I can fault find better..

Many thanks...
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  #14  
Old 22nd May 2023, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donp38 View Post
Have we a part number for the F125 and suggested supplier?
Part number for the F125 switch is 01L919821B, assuming yours is from '99 or newer. It's a 10-pin connector. Supplier wise, depends on what you want. For OEM, the following site has them listed at 328 Euro.

https://originalteilemarkt.de/multif...19821b-2807334

You can go further East (if you know what I mean) and get them a lot cheaper, which I did.

BTW Updating your signature line with details of the car will help in circumstances like this, where there are variations in parts depending on year.
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My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts

Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights

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  #15  
Old 22nd May 2023, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steamship View Post
Part number for the F125 switch is 01L919821B, assuming yours is from '99 or newer. It's a 10-pin connector. Supplier wise, depends on what you want. For OEM, the following site has them listed at 328 Euro.

https://originalteilemarkt.de/multif...19821b-2807334

You can go further East (if you know what I mean) and get them a lot cheaper, which I did.

BTW Updating your signature line with details of the car will help in circumstances like this, where there are variations in parts depending on year.
There's also this at a lower price for that part number:

https://www.ht-onlineshop.de/vag/ant...f_128007_29039
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  #16  
Old 22nd May 2023, 07:29 PM
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when testing voltages measure the voltage at the box on the chassis leg and earth on the body. Then measure voltage on the chassis leg and the engine. Then check the resistance from the chassis to the engine. Could be a bad engine earthing lead.
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  #17  
Old 22nd May 2023, 08:59 PM
donp38 donp38 is offline
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thanks all.
I am suspecting maybe a poor earth.
checked the battery and battery earth this evening...like new...
with extra pair of hands on sunday I can do better checks...
Am I correct that if I can see on vcds the gear selector changing and in P then it will not be the F125 switch?
Actually, it is just like the starter has jammed..
??
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  #18  
Old 22nd May 2023, 09:03 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donp38 View Post
Am I correct that if I can see on vcds the gear selector changing and in P then it will not be the F125 switch?
NO, absolutely NOT!
There are multiple separate circuits in the F125, the Gearbox ECU uses a completely separate set of physical tracks/contacts to the starter relay.
The contacts relevant to the starter relay are NOT monitored in any way by VCDS, they're purely "old school" wiring.

The five arcs bottom/left are the ECU information tracks, the four at the top are for starter (9/10) and reversing lights (7/8).
(Numbers relate to the 10-pin plug, 6 is unused)



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__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!

Last edited by HPsauce; 22nd May 2023 at 09:14 PM.
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  #19  
Old 22nd May 2023, 09:51 PM
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steamship steamship is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanker View Post
There's also this at a lower price for that part number:

https://www.ht-onlineshop.de/vag/ant...f_128007_29039
Brilliant. Another site to source parts from. Bookmarked for future reference.
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2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts

My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts

Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights

My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds
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  #20  
Old 24th May 2023, 04:56 PM
donp38 donp38 is offline
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Great.
So if I do the bypass and the vehicle starts, then it is the F125 switch.
correct?

Assuming I have done the other checks..

Many thanks again.
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