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Daily banter For everything, and anything that doesnt fit in elsewhere |
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#21
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Cheers - she did say they look like Maine Coons and wants one but I told her not until the current cat passes away
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Andy. Current cars: BMW i4 M-Sport Peugeot 207 (the sons) Triumph Daytona 675 (2017 reg) =========================== Gone but not forgotten Ford Focus ST-2 Mk3 (the wifes) (stolen Oct 2023) 1972 T2 Bay Window Camper (Slow) Audi TT Mk1 225 - now with coil-overs and a 7inch touchscreen infotainment centre 2003 A8 Sport 4.2 (with ACC & LPG) (Feed up with all the issues so passed it on to a forum member) 2000 A8 FL QS 4.2 (with RNS-E - Nice) (Engine poorly so sold on to be brought back by someone who has the time) |
#22
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So Stephen, whilst your car was a notable winner of several accolades, underneath it all it was a right mess....
After saying that I'm now afraid of arranging an appointment with Dr D2 in case mine turns out worse
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2002 D2 S8 – Ming Blue, Valcona leather, Vavona wood insert, solar sunroof (to be fitted), Heated rear seats, extended leather pack, 18” Avus, ski hatch, Bose, auto dim rear view mirror, rear blind. |
#23
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Maybe there should be a 'best engine bay' award this year!
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2001 A8 D2 FL 3.7 Q - LPG Conversion, Engine: AKC, Gearbox:FBB, Colour:LY5X Aqua Blue pearl effect, Interior:WJ light beige/dark beige valcona leather with burr walnut inserts My DIY jobs - Replaced alarm horn, Replaced Coolant Temp sensor, Updated RNS-D firmware, Installed Reversing Camera and Digital TV, Dashcam Installation, Retrofitted Rear Blinds, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Chrome Boot Struts Sold! 2008 S8 D3 5.2 V10 - Engine: BSM, Gearbox:KLW, Colour:LY7F Suzuka Grey Pearl Effect, Interior:Black/Black with Silver/Black valcona leather with carbon atlas inserts, Bang & Olufsen, Heated windscreen, Soft-close doors, TV, DAB, AMI, Quad Zone, Auto Boot, Auto dim Mirrors, Keyless entry, PDC with rearview camera, AFS II Headlights My DIY jobs - Fan Jet Windscreen Washers, Retrofitted Electric Side Blinds |
#24
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It’ll be between me and Stephen, then!
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2002 Final Edition S8. Ebony black with Silver Grey leather and myrtle wood trim. Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!). |
#25
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As this is a Mackie's gearbox, I'm not touching it I contrived this arrangement to replace the ATF lost when the cooler lines were removed from the radiator. Attach the lower cooler line, pour ATF in the funnel until it stops taking it, then put the upper line back on.
Both CV boots needed replacing Clips removed Cut the boot in half and remove it A sharp whack to the centre of the joint with a chisel and lump hammer will pop it off the circlip Slide the joint off the splines The circlip is on the left. The plastic bushing and cup-spring on the right hold the joint tightly on the splines. These all get replaced With the hardware removed, I put a plastic bag over the splines so the boot slides on without getting caught on any sharp edges New circlip, bush and cup-spring Rotate the shaft to vertical for the next bit New grease The joint is just sitting on the end of the spline now Put a spare bolt in the end of it to use as a drift Another sharp whack with the lump hammer knocks it over the circlip and it's locked in position again The new boot is held in place with the proper crimp clips. Any mechanic who uses cable ties on CV boots should have his tools confiscated This is the proper tool for crimping the clips On to the other side. Not only was this boot held on with a cable tie, but whichever donkey had messed with it had beaten on the outer joint with a hammer and not bothered to to replace the bushing or cup spring so the joint was loose on the spline I assembled it properly of course. It is trivial to do this stuff properly, and a OEM GKN Lobro CV boot kit is £10. Why bodge it? |
#26
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When I pulled the front panel I noticed that the radiator air guide speed-nuts were getting pretty crusty:
I keep these in stock so replaced them The undertray hardware was missing, broken or bodged so replaced it all with new genuine hardware The electronics box needed the usual repair Engine bay all done Interior stuff again - the centre vent was broken The pin had broken off the end of the slat I'd got to about this point when Jim arrived! I brought Jim's in for a quick triage at this point so took a pic while they were all out in the sun together |
#27
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Great work!
Seems a bit drastic for a single broken vent slat!
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Mark ------------------------------------------------------ 2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------ Cars Owned: The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present) (Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability) The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present) The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust |
#28
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Michaela,
Going back to the chain tensioner pads, you were saying that you cable tied the exhaust cam to the cam locking bar to stop it trying to move 15°... It's my understanding that the cam gears are held on a taper, so I've got two questions; 1. How did you keep timing while you pulled the timing belt cam gear off? 2. With the cam gear removed (and the locking bar locating bushing presumably removed with it), what did you attach the locking bar to to keep timing? I'm missing something here I'm sure! Does the locating bushing go back on and is it keyed or something? I'll have to do this job eventually on mine, so I want to know how to keep timing when removing the cam timing gear. It's something I expect I'll learn during the head reassembly on the Silver car!
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Cheers Marty ____________________ Current: 2001 Audi S8 - Brilliant Black with Black interior, C5 RS6 rims (whenever I actually put them on...), Solar Sunroof, Tinted side and rear glass, RNS-D, Grom, Bose, clunky old phone in arm rest! 2002 Audi S8 - Project Replacement head coming arrived thanks to MJ Silver with Black interior. All features as the '01, with the 'S' mode auto shifter. Dodgey rear tint (need to find a way to get rid of that). Family: 2009 Volvo XC90 V8 R Design - has a louder more obnoxious exhaust than the S8, sounds great! Love this thing - Q7 was double the price, and certainly not double the car! Sold: 1997 Audi A4 - Hamilton's Club Sport, Achat Grey (will miss the old girl) |
#29
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Yes I'll snap a couple of pics to explain.
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#30
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Cam stuff:
This is the cam sprocket attached. As noted, its a taper fit on the cam so held on by the torque of the bolt. This is the locking plate. Both cams have flats milled on to them such that the locking plate only fits one way round, and its sandwiched between the sprocket and the washer under the bolt head. This is the locking plate and bolt in place without the sprocket. The locking plate is loosely pushed on to the flats on the cam and then the bolt holds it in place The right hand bank 1 cam will happily just sit there with no belt or sprocket. The left hand bank 2 cam though will rotate clockwise with very little provocation (especially on the V6), but generally won't move when you just take the belt off so its simple enough to dismantle everything to do the belt without it escaping. But, as soon as you loosen the inlet cam and chain tensioner, it will jump round on its own thus I keep the bar in at all times except when removing or refitting sprockets, the belt, or the water pump (because the bar gets in the way). Its not that important when only doing the belt though. The engine in this pic ^ is sitting on a pallet with no timing gear and both cams are still lined up. When I pull it apart to do the tensioners, that's when I'll put the bar pack in |
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