Front Outer CV Boot & Rear Wheel Bearing Bushes - Replacing

[steamship]

Thankfully because of a couple of days of dry weather, I've finally had a chance to get under the car and check things out prior to the MOT.

I was aware of a slight knocking from the rear at very slow speeds on a lane, so it wasn't a surprise to see that the rear left lower bushes (#2 in the attached image) were considerably worse than the previous time I checked them. I've already ordered the parts, but just wondering if anyone has ever changed these in situ?

The other end of the car has a different issue. The front right outer CV boot has a split in it, about two inches long. The area around it is still perfectly free from grease, but again I'm wondering if anyone has done this in situ. Also, I've the option of using one of those CV boot expanding tools to put on the new one, or I can dismantle the CV joint itself. I'm not keen on the latter option for a number of reasons.

I've already got the relevant PDFs from the Tech Dump thread and will be scouring through them later.

[strummagnet]

I tried doing the front cv boot in situ but it is far easier to take the driveshaft out and work on a bench. I found it a doddle. Though there was some confusion over the orientation of the bearing cage ( took it all apart to clean and check) but youtube put me right.

https://youtu.be/UAOF5oQnIFE?si=9Zev95YpwifqRGPb

[ainarssems]

For the bush you probably need to take off the arm and do it on the press. Sometimes bushes can be looking pretty sorry from the outside but not having excess movement. I would not replace it based on looks alone if there is no movement.

CV boot can be replaced in situ. I never used stretch boots, some of the aftermarket boots start cracking and split after a year or 2. Try to stick to OEM or known good brands like GKN. J&R from eBay have also worked well for me, they probably don't make their own so could be varied depending where they get them from each time. If the boot was split I usually take the joint off, clean and wash in diesel before reassembling in case dust, dirt and water have gotten in. Can be easily removed from shaft while still on car, I use the driveshaft bolt, put a small socket under it and just tighten it until CV joint pops off. If you remove driveshaft from gearbox, I recommend using thread lock when reassembling as some people have had those bolts undoing themselves after reassembly.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

Sometimes bushes can be looking pretty sorry from the outside but not having excess movement. I would not replace it based on looks alone if there is no movement.

This is a photo I took of it when checking it. Bear in mind that the underside hasn't been cleaned for some time (and I live down a muddy lane), but I'm sure that combined with the noise it's making and the split you can see on the left hand one, it will most likely fail, and I'm supposed to be attending the annual meet at the start of June.

Unfortunately I don't have access to a bench or a press, hence the in situ questions.

[steamship]

Good news... and more bad news.

The good news is that I've managed to replace both pairs of lower rear bushes using home made tools. The official Audi tool costs $370 from the US. Mine was made from some 12mm threaded bar, a piece of stainless steel pipe obtained from a scrap yard and part of a scaffolding base plate, cut to size with a cheap battery operated angle grinder, with the bushes being put in with the aid of an impact gun.



This photo is the worst of the four bushes, the next being not much better. There was no effort required to removed the central section or the rubber bush itself. The drivers side wasn't as bad, but they say to replace them on both sides.



Now the more bad news. Was replacing both precat O2 sensors as codes for them popped up recently, and while I was underneath spotted something. The passenger side spring is broken near the bottom, so they need replaced as well before MOT, and I think that job is well beyond my skills... and tools.

Currently going through EKTA trying to identify the correct springs for a 3.7 AKC non-Sport, as I can't see any colour markings.
EDIT: Managed to find the details from an old printout from 2017, which included the relevant details, 1BM and 0JJ (3 yellow, 1 violet). Parts ordered, now to do some reading.

A couple of good days and then this happened 99% of the way through doing the sensors.

[Lovelybus]

I think the bushes you did are the ones I've been looking for?
From where did you get them please as they come up as NLA for me.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by Lovelybus

I think the bushes you did are the ones I've been looking for?
From where did you get them please as they come up as NLA for me.

If it's items #2 in the image from the first post, then part number is 4D0505171L. I bought mine from Autodoc, Febest brand. There are currently ones listed on eBay, also Febest, with sellers in the UK, Lithuania and Germany.

[steamship]

UPDATE - swings and roundabouts

New spring is in on the passenger side, after buying a set of spring compressors. Replacing the drivers side as well; as suggested; so I can do the CV boot whilst that is out of the way.

CV boot/driveshaft update - Having no success finding anyone who could do the job, I managed to purchase a brand new driveshaft (not OEM) suitable for the car specs. Pulled the driveshaft out, and discover that the new one is not correct, so it's back to replacing the CV boot. Thankfully, someone I know offered to replace the boot by taking the CV joint off, instead of expanding the boot over the joint with one of those tools. Job done, and driveshaft back in place.

Brakes - Something that wasn't originally in my plans, but I had noticed on a couple of heavy braking occasions recently that there was a vibration from the front right, so ordered up a set of discs and calipers. Already had the drivers side off to do the driveshaft etc., and discovered that the carrier was seized. Have to assume this happened after the last MOT, as the machine would have picked up on it, but since I tend to be light on brakes, it's never been an issue until there was sudden heavy braking. Turns out that the discs, advertised as the correct ones for the car (1LX), and every single dimension being identical to mine, are, not surprisingly, wrong. This time, the height is wrong. They should be 60mm, but instead they are 45mm. Basically, what that means is that it is physically impossible to fit the outer brake pads.

This is costing more and more, with now two returns processes being started. The driveshaft should be easy, since it wasn't removed from the inner clear plastic bag. The disc on the other hand will probably be an issue, since I had tried to fit it, although I purchased it based on the listed specs. I shouldn't have to then measure everything again. Another pair have been ordered from elsewhere, and this time the specs confirmed.

Another couple of days lost to an already tight deadline.

[sarg]

Originally Posted by steamship

Another couple of days lost to an already tight deadline.

fingers crossed for you

[steamship]

UPDATE - ♪ Back on the Road Again ♪

Brakes - Something I forgot to mention in the previous post was about the callipers, which I should have spotted as soon as I opened the box. They arrived without the carriers on them, despite the photos showing otherwise. That meant more work pulling the old ones apart, and cleaning the carriers before transplanting them over.

Anyway, this is how much of the spring that broke off (cut again with an angle grinder to get it out of the way):



This is the before and after solution, and yes, those are genuine old 'new' stock shock absorbers. Bought them in 2017, and even back then had difficulties getting them shipped across to NI. Ended up sending them to my brother who was still living in England at the time, and he brought them over when he came fishing.





And this is the final result, times 2:



I also bought two new pinch bolts thinking I'll replace them while I'm at it, since they're a known cause of heartache, even though I don't have to touch them, and true to form, one was seized solid. Ironically, it was the drivers side, the same side that I had to replace the entire suspension strut of (thankfully, A8parts came to the rescue on that)... because the mechanic couldn't get the pinch bolt out of the original. That was in April 2017, and true to his form, he hammered it in that tight, it's going to be another nightmare to work on.

There's still the MOT to get done, and even though mine 'expired' a week ago, I'm still able to drive it on NI roads because of the backlog here. My MOT date is at the start of July, so tomorrow I have to phone them and ask for an emergency appointment because I'm going across to the mainland. I still need to check around the rest of the car to make sure none of the little things are likely to fail it, and also get it washed top and bottom.

When I was at the physio during the week, we were talking cars, and he said he just booked his MOT, and the date he got was in October!