Front Outer CV Boot & Rear Wheel Bearing Bushes - Replacing

[steamship]

Thankfully because of a couple of days of dry weather, I've finally had a chance to get under the car and check things out prior to the MOT.

I was aware of a slight knocking from the rear at very slow speeds on a lane, so it wasn't a surprise to see that the rear left lower bushes (#2 in the attached image) were considerably worse than the previous time I checked them. I've already ordered the parts, but just wondering if anyone has ever changed these in situ?

The other end of the car has a different issue. The front right outer CV boot has a split in it, about two inches long. The area around it is still perfectly free from grease, but again I'm wondering if anyone has done this in situ. Also, I've the option of using one of those CV boot expanding tools to put on the new one, or I can dismantle the CV joint itself. I'm not keen on the latter option for a number of reasons.

I've already got the relevant PDFs from the Tech Dump thread and will be scouring through them later.

[strummagnet]

I tried doing the front cv boot in situ but it is far easier to take the driveshaft out and work on a bench. I found it a doddle. Though there was some confusion over the orientation of the bearing cage ( took it all apart to clean and check) but youtube put me right.

https://youtu.be/UAOF5oQnIFE?si=9Zev95YpwifqRGPb

[ainarssems]

For the bush you probably need to take off the arm and do it on the press. Sometimes bushes can be looking pretty sorry from the outside but not having excess movement. I would not replace it based on looks alone if there is no movement.

CV boot can be replaced in situ. I never used stretch boots, some of the aftermarket boots start cracking and split after a year or 2. Try to stick to OEM or known good brands like GKN. J&R from eBay have also worked well for me, they probably don't make their own so could be varied depending where they get them from each time. If the boot was split I usually take the joint off, clean and wash in diesel before reassembling in case dust, dirt and water have gotten in. Can be easily removed from shaft while still on car, I use the driveshaft bolt, put a small socket under it and just tighten it until CV joint pops off. If you remove driveshaft from gearbox, I recommend using thread lock when reassembling as some people have had those bolts undoing themselves after reassembly.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

Sometimes bushes can be looking pretty sorry from the outside but not having excess movement. I would not replace it based on looks alone if there is no movement.

This is a photo I took of it when checking it. Bear in mind that the underside hasn't been cleaned for some time (and I live down a muddy lane), but I'm sure that combined with the noise it's making and the split you can see on the left hand one, it will most likely fail, and I'm supposed to be attending the annual meet at the start of June.

Unfortunately I don't have access to a bench or a press, hence the in situ questions.

[steamship]

Good news... and more bad news.

The good news is that I've managed to replace both pairs of lower rear bushes using home made tools. The official Audi tool costs $370 from the US. Mine was made from some 12mm threaded bar, a piece of stainless steel pipe obtained from a scrap yard and part of a scaffolding base plate, cut to size with a cheap battery operated angle grinder, with the bushes being put in with the aid of an impact gun.



This photo is the worst of the four bushes, the next being not much better. There was no effort required to removed the central section or the rubber bush itself. The drivers side wasn't as bad, but they say to replace them on both sides.



Now the more bad news. Was replacing both precat O2 sensors as codes for them popped up recently, and while I was underneath spotted something. The passenger side spring is broken near the bottom, so they need replaced as well before MOT, and I think that job is well beyond my skills... and tools.

Currently going through EKTA trying to identify the correct springs for a 3.7 AKC non-Sport, as I can't see any colour markings.
EDIT: Managed to find the details from an old printout from 2017, which included the relevant details, 1BM and 0JJ (3 yellow, 1 violet). Parts ordered, now to do some reading.

A couple of good days and then this happened 99% of the way through doing the sensors.