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Daily banter For everything, and anything that doesnt fit in elsewhere |
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#51
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Looks amazing! I wish I had your patience to clean mine, its a bit grimy inside.
What do you use for cleaning grease and grime off the painted bits? Would brake cleaner start attacking the paint? |
#52
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Chlorinated brake cleaner probably would. I use a naptha-based brake & clutch cleaner from TPS which is very mild but which cuts through oil and grease very well indeed, although ironically it doesn't dissolve brake fluid Its much easier on PF and FL1 though as they are lacquered in the engine bay and so quite robust. The FL2s aren't lacquered so you have to be very careful not to dissolve the paint! On those I use Gtechniq W7 tar remover as that is quite benign and remarkably powerful. I also have a product called 'Dirt Juice' bike cleaner from my neighbours which is also quite a mild solvent but in an aerosol so it has dirt-blasting power if needed.
Once the oil is gone I use Gtechniq W5 APC most of the time, in varying concentration depending on the level of grime. In this case, being the worst I've encountered so far, the W5 was mildly supercharged with 10% Autosmart G101 which is an extremely powerful alkaline APC - basically a trade version of the Elbow Grease product discussed in other threads. I'd be disinclined to put G101 anywhere near an FL2 engine bay though. Beware toluene-based tar remover as well as that also dissolves the unlacquered paint. Once it's all clean-ish with no more grit or chunks I'll use a waterless wash or quick detailer to tidy up any smudges, and then a sealant to finish off. |
#53
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Thanks
I am going to stick to the ones you recommended. The Halfords brake cleaner I have seems to attack the paint/lacquer. I think mine is FL1? Autumn 2001 build date. Will the naptha brake cleaner from TPS also work on the engine block? I'll have a lot of cleaning to do there. |
#54
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Yours is FL2 so mild cleaners only in the engine bay. Yes, I also use the TPS brake cleaner on the mechanical bits like engine and gearbox. I buy it in 5 litre cans and use it in a spray bottle as it goes much further for the same money than the 400ml aerosol which is gone in seconds.
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#55
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Quote:
I’ll be very careful in that case, that explains why the Halfords one attacked the paint so easily. |
#56
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As usual the fuel line clamps have rusted away so these will be replaced
Original fuel filter? The fuel line rubbers will be soaked overnight in Bilt Hamber Korrosol to remove the embedded rust Purple gloop I put something back in! The connector for the servotronic solenoid is easily accessible, despite Audi's assertion that they used the ridiculously fragile trailing cable to make it possible to install the rack. Connector harness attached I run the cable over the top of the rack out of the way, rather than underneath like the factory did where it could get cooked by the exhaust This plastic nut used to go on the stud which is now replaced by an M6 rivnut, so I screwed some M6 threaded bar in to it to make a hybrid bolt Works perfectly |
#57
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The aux belt tensioner in the PF is part of the timing belt cover. Its a complicated affair which runs on a pair of needle roller bearings which I had to remove to get it powdercoated
Two new bearings, and I made a tool to press them in to place One of the bearings fitted The tensioner, complete with massive spring just waiting to go sproing and break something / someone Tensioner arm Assembled view from the back. I managed to put it together without scratching anything or the spring going sproing. I also fitted a new fan pulley bearing. I need this to finish the timing belt reassembly as the crank pulley locking tool fits in to the slot at the bottom of the cover Fuel line rubber doodads now free of rust They'll soak in rubber care solution overnight |
#58
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I put the inside of the inlet manifold back in and noted that this arrangement of vacuum pipes is very silly indeed, especially since it just flaps about.
Much better I've also tucked the vacuum reservoir hose under the inlet manifold and out the back, instead of it dangling over the top of the PS pump. More on that later. I finished off the timing belt setup and got the tensioners correct and the locking tools removed. Next job is to visit the local tractor workshop and see if they have a torque wrench that goes to 450Nm so I can do the crank pulley bolt I couldn't put the old rotten rubber seals on the beautifully powdercoated covers, so even though the price of new seals is £ it just had to be done Covers back on, and I'm pretty pleased with how smart they look Manky rotten rubber here would just have let the whole thing down |
#59
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Those covers are just lovely so much nicer than the plastic ones on the 40v.
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Cars... '93 Audi Coupe 2.0 Alpine White (sold) '99 Audi S4 Merlin Purple - K04 upgrade to 412hp (sold) '00 Audi S8 Agate Grey (Sold ) '11 Audi Q7 4.2tdi Unknown Red (Classic Red Pearl Effect - thanks MJ) |
#60
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Quote:
Just wondering, will the 32v timing belt covers fit on the 40v engines?
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2001 S8 (build date March 16th 2001) Brilliant black with oxblood red/black interior. Mods prior to my ownership: 01E 6 speed, carbon fiber trim, bi-xenon, aftermarket muffler with x-pipe, tinted windows, non-tip steering wheel, Spal electric fan. My mods: Oxblood red interior, LED interior lights, D3 ignition coils, new window tint, tip steering wheel with new S8 emblem, mk1 TT steering wheel air bag, mk1 TT 6 speed shift knob, new shift boot. |
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