Suspension Arm Supplier

[brasiliangringo]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

or drill them out if that does not help, no need to replace the whole hub.

Drilling with a hand drill is a nightmare in situ and honestly going down the drilling route that will leave you with your sanity would require it to be done with a bench drill of sorts and removing the strut. The point about replacing it can be an issue if its stuck fast or damage has occurred in the frustration of trying to remove the bolt - 1st hand experience as have sold them for this reason.

There is a special VAG tool for doing these bolts. The other workshop tool out there is like wrapping a flexible kettle element around the top of the hub, which heats it to huge temperature and expands the outer casing and breaks the bond. I have not used one or seen it in action but have heard they are effective from one source, obviously same idea as heat which is the 1st thing to try imo.

[Adrian E]

A lot of garages have some kind of localised freezing kit as well, to make the bolt contract more relative to the hub. Mine on my D2 were done using that method and both sides were done in an hour (just upper 4)

[brasiliangringo]

Originally Posted by Adrian E

A lot of garages have some kind of localised freezing kit as well, to make the bolt contract more relative to the hub. Mine on my D2 were done using that method and both sides were done in an hour (just upper 4)

You mean like the shock and freeze aerosols available from Loctite, and the makers of WD40 etc ?

[Adrian E]

Originally Posted by brasiliangringo

You mean like the shock and freeze aerosols available from Loctite, and the makers of WD40 etc ?

I'm not sure which one they use - I know it worked on my ABS sensor when it wouldn't come out and one of the upper arm pinch bolts.

[brasiliangringo]

Never used it so interesting to hear - i was always sceptical about it ! Certainly a good alternative when heat will melt / burn rubber parts nearby.

[tipptop]

Hi all, need to replace a front lower rear control arm, I read somewhere that the A8 with 20" alloys had different lower arms and wheel bearing housing, not sure if thats on a D2 or D3. I checked my PR codes and my car has the 20" alloys from the factory.

I got a part number off the lower front control arm, its 4E0407155C, however my rear lower (the one I need to replace) doesn't have a part number on it. Etka is showing the front lower as 4E0407151L, no mention of 4E0407155C which is what is on my car.

Can anyone confirm the part number for a rear lower control arm on a D3 if my front lower is 4E0407155C... It would be much appreciated.

Just an update, audi don't even recognise the front lower arm part number 4E0407155C. He mumbled something about 'base part numbers' and couldn't really explain why that part number is on my car. He said that the etka part numbers 4E0407151L for front lower and 4E0407694N for rear lower. I'm gonna drop the ball joint side off the car and measure it so I can check the new part before I take it.

[ainarssems]

Base part number will be the number for the metal casting but it machined afterwards and can have different size ball joint and bushes or different materials/stiffness for the bushes. Real number will be either on the sticker or on the packaging, it will not be cast in metal.