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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #1  
Old 29th July 2010, 10:16 PM
Mr K Mr K is offline
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Default ARB Bush Replacement - How too guide

Having replaced all the arms and bushes theese where the only bits of rubber left in my front suspension, and they where knocking.

No how too guides out there that i could see, and it is very simple so a nice easy DIY taking me less than an hour.

For the guide i am using stongflex poly uprated bushes - the car feels very very nice now with theese and meyle HD bushes.

1. get the front of the car up - you dont need it up very high, but it does need to be level to ensure the ARB isnt 'active'. No need to remove the wheels.



2. Take off the undertray. thats 5 fasteners along bottom of the valance, 2 in each wheel arch, and 4 on the tray. theese all need a twist 1/2 turn with a large blade type screw driver. no-pics, but will do a proper guide once my full set of new fasteners arrive.

3. Remove the bolt at each end securing the ARB to the drop link. assuming the car is sitting flat left to right it wont be under load.

4. Remove the 4 bolts securing the ARB bush backets to the subframe.



5. Old Vs New. Most of the more expensive poly bush manufacturers recomend that you dont cut ARB bushes - but there is no way you will get these over the end of your ARBs. Ever. Theese are easily slot (carefully) with a sharp stanley knife to match the orignals.
I also had to remove some mould flash from around one end (just visable in photo) again using a stanley knife and tidied up with coarse sandpaper.



6. Clean the inside of the bracket and smeer some grease (i used a lithium based grease inside the bush and inside the bracket, no idea what the right stuff is but you can buy special 'bush assembly grease' but i expect it comes from the same tin as elbow grease and duck oil.

7. Put the bushes on the ARB and slot the brakets over them

8. Bolt the ARB back up to the underside of your car.



9. Bolt drop links back onto the end and torque all bolts up.

10. reinstall undertray.

I cleaned it all as i went as i hate working on greasy bits - the passenger side was particularly bad due to a leaky power steering pump a few years ago.

I also thread locked it all to ensure it doesnt fall appart.

Bushes obtainable from here:
http://www.strong-flex.eu/index.php?...chk=1&Itemid=1

No idea how good they are - got mine from ebay cheap (posted from poland) but the car feels good, the clonk is gone but i only have 150miles on them so far.
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Last edited by Mr K; 29th July 2010 at 10:19 PM. Reason: added a better picture
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Old 30th July 2010, 06:25 AM
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Oli18 Oli18 is offline
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Top write up and looks great!

Glad to hear some fresh bush action sorted out the clocking!

Oli
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Old 30th July 2010, 07:24 AM
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Conan_the_Librarian Conan_the_Librarian is offline
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Nice How-To. Added to sticky.
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1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard
2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion.
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Previously
2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex
1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure.
1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex.
2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on.
1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8.
And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light.
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Old 21st January 2014, 06:27 AM
texas2201 texas2201 is offline
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bush link fails with a 404 error
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Old 21st January 2014, 06:38 AM
texas2201 texas2201 is offline
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bush link fails with a 404 error - it is just going to the wrong page http://www.strongflex.eu/en/audi-a6-...front_arb-25mm
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