Its a little cold in the D3

[snapdragon]

Well, I just replaced my 4E0959617C valve/circulation pump block today with a used part that was 220PZL (£47) delivered from allegro.pl to UK. That is about 1/3 of UK ebay price.

I tested in the house with 12v DC on the pump and heard it wizz up.
I didn't put 12v on the other connectors in case it damages the solenoid, but they were both 17.6 OHM.

My old one was 4E0959617(A) but I can't see any difference between the two externally. They don't seem to have any manufacture date on them at all.

Quite a fiddly job, the Audi service manual instructions are not much use really, but I recommend using a paint pen to mark all hoses A, B, C, D and the two larger ones from the bulkhead T for top as the last two are especially easy to mix up.

On my 3.0 TDI there is a waterbox cover with an ECU sat on it in the way and these had to be removed and set asside. I also had to disconnect a few coloured multipin plugs in the waterbox to allow me to pull the loom away. The look had a block shaped bung where it enters the waterbox and this can slide up and out to move the loom. The cabin air filter also needs removing.

Now that is as much room as you can get, so time to mark up the hoses and undo the jubilee clips. Then you need to wiggle off the hoses with a scredriver. Remove 3 electrical connectors *which are all keyed so can't get mixed up. The valve is mounts on six (2 upper and 4 lower) rubber carrots. it will pull off these but refitting is tricky.

Once all hoses are off the unit will pull up with some wiggling and you can compre new and old on the bench. Mark the ABCD etc hose postitions on the new part (it helps a lot) and refit. TIP - -I had to remove again and start all over as it would not push down and lock with the 4 lower carrots - You have to remove 2 x 10mm nuts and take out the mounting bracket and fit it to the valves first. Put soap on the carrots and then pull them through the hole with pliars, they stretch a lot and sort of extrude through the hole. The 10mm nuts are easily accessible when in position.

Putting the hoses back on is harder than pulling off. Helps if they are we with coolant was harder the second time by which time they were drier.
Last pipe was the drivers side upper which I used for bleeding, you can just put a garden click on hosepipe fitting to the valve outlet and open the tap a bit until coolantr comes out of the rubber pipe, then pull off hosepipe and fit coolant hose. This does dilute your coolant a bit so can syphon some off and add neat coolant when all finished.

Make sure electrical coonectors are dried with air duster or alcohol before refitting. Back to toasty again, and when your colleagues tell you you should have bought a Japanese car you can tell them this was a Japanese DENSO part.

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[tc4332]

Another damn good "How2DoIt"
Well done.

[ulfilias]

Originally Posted by snapdragon

Well, I just replaced my 4E0959617C valve/circulation pump block today with a used part that was 220PZL (£47) delivered from allegro.pl to UK. That is about 1/3 of UK ebay price.

That looks interesting. How easy was it to use. I've had a search and there seems to be valves from 130PZL even. Though even after setting up an account and using Chrome translate (works well up to the point of SSL transaction), but really not sure about the ~20PZL postage as that seems the same as Polish....one seemed to have Czech as 80ZPL, which i'd guess UK to be more ?

Lee (still cold after flushing the system)

[snapdragon]

Originally Posted by ulfilias

That looks interesting. How easy was it to use.

I just find their email address and compose an email with the help of google translate asking in unambiguous language if they accept paypal and post to the UK? Most seem to and teh postage is usually cheaper than expected too. There is a risk as just a gentlements agreement on email but I have found them honest enough..

[Mechcanico Lee]

Without even removing the block assembly off the car For a quick ‘ fix ‘ the two barrel shaped parts of the valve assembly are the electro solenoids , undo the cross head screws that hold the outer case this will expose the water control solenoids , pull the solenoids out of the block so the water now has no restriction. Refit it all back together and bleed up and see if your heat returns .
It’s a good test to show if you have blocked matrixes .

In theory the engines water pump can push through the ‘rest ‘ pumps impeller
Iirc the rest pump does not run all the time ....it does not need to when the engines water pump is running but I suppose if the rest pumps impeller seized this could hold flow up to the matrix .

Worth a go before you buy the valve , maybe snapdragon could open his old one up and have a look to see what has failed on his .

[snapdragon]

OK - took apart quickly as requested.. Pump is open circuit so maybe brushes or blown coil, will try taking nut off shaft tomorrow.

The motor seemes to spin a grey magnetic disc which must drive something magentic on the other side of the sliver aluminium bell-housing.

Removing the barrel shaped solenoid drivers exposes the shafts and both should be out when not energised (as in photo)

Looks good quality bit of kit but not sure worth over a grand.

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[Mechcanico Lee]

Yes does look like good quality , as a rule in an un powered condition the valves are sprung so water can flow ....so if you had any sort of wiring fault or power failure to the valves you will still have heat for demisting purposes .

Perhaps the pumping motor uses magnetic attraction to spin an impeller on the other side of the case ,because if the engine water pump was running at the same time could this over speed the electric pump ?? just thinking a loud here .

These type of valves fail on BMW’s quite a bit , but when you take them apart the valves are normally rusted to death and the seals have rotted away and jamming the valve up , yours look quite fresh there Snap D .

Thanks for taking it apart so we can see how it works ....always good to have an understanding how things work

[snapdragon]

Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee

Thanks for taking it apart so we can see how it works ....always good to have an understanding how things work

Thanks matey, will try and go a bit further in tomorrow but was pushed for time. Never seen this waterpump/magnet arrangement so would be interested to see further in. The E28 BMW I had in the 1990s had heat in the cabin all the time the valve block was shocking quality in comparison but was made 30 years ago I suppose.

Mine has done 260,000 miles so can't grumble. The pump runs from idle until 2000 rpm according to Self Study Guide, I can see why, without it that is when the heat output becomes feeble. It also runs with residual heat function and I concur this stopped giving heat for more than 30 seconds.

The pump will also pull enough warm water on a winter's morningto pre heat the cabin, but only if the Aux heater is turned on manually via holding ON/OFF on climate panel to make it come on without ignition and selecting HI + HI on temps. If making the AUX heater come on via the timer menu (activated via VCDS) then this pump does not come on and no heat is pulled up which is a shame. I have the extra pump V55? to fit to the Webasto but will probably never get around to getting the other parts and fitting it.

[ulfilias]

Originally Posted by Mechcanico Lee

Yes does look like good quality , as a rule in an un powered condition the valves are sprung so water can flow ....so if you had any sort of wiring fault or power failure to the valves you will still have heat for demisting purposes

Hmm....If that's the case, why pull the solinoids out, just remove the power connector ???

Or am I missing something ?

Lee