Need help with ABS problem. 4.2 -03

[ainarssems]

I am new to D3 myself so not much experience yet but in general ABS pump should only be running when ABS/ESP/EDL is activated, not all the time. I don't think there are any external relays for ABS. Looks like your ABS unit is shorted causing pump to run all the time. I don't know if it has internal relay which could be stuck on or if it is activated with transistor which could be shorted. Pump running all the time could cause voltage drop in the unit especially if battery is weak and that could result in communication errors.

[classexa]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

I am new to D3 myself so not much experience yet but in general ABS pump should only be running when ABS/ESP/EDL is activated, not all the time. I don't think there are any external relays for ABS. Looks like your ABS unit is shorted causing pump to run all the time. I don't know if it has internal relay which could be stuck on or if it is activated with transistor which could be shorted. Pump running all the time could cause voltage drop in the unit especially if battery is weak and that could result in communication errors.

So your guess would be the ABS module itself?

The first time I noticed the running pump after the car was shut off, was on NYE(Dec. 31). That was the first time. Haven't driven it since(well, I drove it home). I bought the car Dec. 27.

[IT]

If you are resetting each time, and all those errors are coming back - I would focus on the low voltage ones as it shouldnt be flagging up voltage errors on a good battery.

If you don't have a good battery and stable voltage, all kinds of weird things can happen.

if the battery is good, it might be a faulty or mis-calibrated power module....

You could try disconnecting the battery, charging it to full and then recoding the battery module to get things back in sync if it is definitely a good battery.

I wouldn't waste time diagnosing anything else until the power is stable....

[classexa]

Originally Posted by IT

If you are resetting each time, and all those errors are coming back - I would focus on the low voltage ones as it shouldnt be flagging up voltage errors on a good battery.

If you don't have a good battery and stable voltage, all kinds of weird things can happen.

if the battery is good, it might be a faulty or mis-calibrated power module....

You could try disconnecting the battery, charging it to full and then recoding the battery module to get things back in sync if it is definitely a good battery.

I wouldn't waste time diagnosing anything else until the power is stable....

The low voltage codes doesn't show up on my latest scan(1st post). Did a scan when I bought the car. Cleared the codes and went for a drive and scanned again(3 days later). The scan in my latest post is the 1st scan

But I will disconnect the battery and charge it

[steamship]

Originally Posted by IT

If you are resetting each time, and all those errors are coming back - I would focus on the low voltage ones as it shouldnt be flagging up voltage errors on a good battery.

If you don't have a good battery and stable voltage, all kinds of weird things can happen.

if the battery is good, it might be a faulty or mis-calibrated power module....

You could try disconnecting the battery, charging it to full and then recoding the battery module to get things back in sync if it is definitely a good battery.

I wouldn't waste time diagnosing anything else until the power is stable....

Ian, are there any fuses for the ABS unit? Just wondering if it would be worthwhile pulling them once they get the battery charged, so that it isn't causing a continuous drain. That way they could hopefully clear all the errors caused by low voltage issues, and just be left with the 'real' errors. I'm not suggesting they drive the car like that on the road, but at least it will give them a better view of what the other issues are, including the ABS one, and hopefully not make it look as bad to overcome.

Some of the errors in the first post (most recent scan) are still old ones, so I'd also suggest going into each module and clearing them within the module, but as IT says, you'll need to get the battery issue sorted first.

[classexa]

If I wash the car in a automatic car wash, including underbody with no splash guard underneath the car, could that affect/screw up the electronics? I think the warning lights showed up after that. Not immediately though. Most likely not the issue, just speculating

[steamship]

Originally Posted by classexa

If I wash the car in a automatic car wash, including underbody with no splash guard underneath the car, could that affect/screw up the electronics? I think the warning lights showed up after that. Not immediately though. Most likely not the issue, just speculating

Nothing is impossible, but I would highly doubt it, as all the electrical connectors on the outside of the car are designed to prevent water ingress. I've used car washes in the past without issue.

If you're concerned that water may have been the issue, I'd check the plenum chamber in the engine bay to ensure it isn't full of water, and I'd also check the carpets in the front to see if any water has gotten into the car.

[classexa]

Ok. The battery is now fully charged. I connected the ABS unit again just to test. Still running. Now, there's no point in doing a scan with the ABS unit disconnected because it's gonna throw all kinds of codes and I don't know what's what. Should I leave the charger on and connect the ABS unit and do a scan? If I pull the fuses, isn't that the same as disconnecting the unit?

And just to be sure, there's no external relay dedicated to the ABS unit? If all these things are fine(fuses, relay), then it's leaning towards the ABS module no?

EDIT: Just opened the driver side fuse box and it's all wet. All the fuses seem fine when I check with a multimeter but that can't be good. Coming from the upside and been running down over the fuses and inside the contacts on some

Don't know if you see much here:



Should I replace them all and blowdry the panel or something?