Major Coolant Loss

MikkiJayne · #1 25th January 2023, 10:03 AM

On a V8, no. The minimum is to take the bumper off and swing the front panel out 30 degrees or so, but its not fun to work in there like that. I take the complete front panel off and swing the AC condenser out of the way instead to get complete access.

steamship · #2 25th January 2023, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The minimum is to take the bumper off and swing the front panel out 30 degrees or so,

I was thinking that. Who knows what I'll find.

ainarssems · #3 25th January 2023, 11:45 AM

Must be tighter clearances of FL. I was doing belts on PF without touching bumper.

MikkiJayne · #4 25th January 2023, 01:41 PM

You can just about change the aux belt on an FL with the front panel in place, but I'm 99% sure you can't get the tensioner out, and then you can't get the snub mount bracket off which is necessary to get to the timing belt.

I think the PF alloy covers can be removed reasonably easily with the front in place, but I wouldn't like to try and remove the crank pulley bolt with such restricted access.

I'm going to stick to taking the front off

steamship · #5 25th January 2023, 04:35 PM

Question for MJ or anyone else whose done this job, but what do you use to block the various pipes whilst working on the rest of the engine?

I had a proper look around the entire front earlier, as I had only been disconnecting the two water pipes prior on the left side of the radiator. So far, I've identified two pipes for the power steering cooler (very front), two pipes for the aircon cooler (middle) and two pipes for the transmission cooler (through the main radiator).

MikkiJayne · #6 25th January 2023, 05:49 PM

PS pipes I made a couple of plugs specifically for them, but either an M10 bolt with a plain shank and a couple of hose clamps, or use brake hose clamps to pinch the pipes shut. It'll dribble everywhere which is normal so have lots of blue roll / rags to hand.

Trans cooler just let it drip out. You'll lose about 250ml which can be put back in to the top cooler line socket with a tube and small funnel.

Don't disconnect the AC as that's under pressure (and utterly seized). With the condenser unbolted from the rad you can swing it round so it lies flat on the left side under the abs block etc. I'd recommend taping some cardboard over both sides to protect it.

Or, leave it all connected and put two 8" pieces of M8 threaded rod in the chassis legs to support it, and just move it forward. As noted, personally I feel thats like wallpapering the hallway through the letterbox, but I have the facilities to take it all to bits. Its a bit different on a driveway outside!

steamship · #7 25th January 2023, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

PS pipes ... an M10 bolt with a plain shank and a couple of hose clamps. It'll dribble everywhere which is normal so have lots of blue roll / rags to hand.

I was wondering if I could do something like that as it was all I could think of.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Trans cooler just let it drip out. You'll lose about 250ml which can be put back in to the top cooler line socket with a tube and small funnel.

Fair enough. I remember you mentioned topping it up in one of the WITW threads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Don't disconnect the AC as that's under pressure (and utterly seized). With the condenser unbolted from the rad you can swing it round so it lies flat on the left side under the abs block etc. I'd recommend taping some cardboard over both sides to protect it.

That saves me the time even trying it. Cardboard it is, and I've already sprayed every bolt at the front so hopefully they come out without a fight.

This should be interesting.