D3 Parasitic battery drain

Turbo Tony · #1 28th November 2016, 03:29 PM

Hmm... I have the same problem on my car and I'm watching this thread with interest.

Audi think it was caused by a faulty EPB motor. It's been changed now but I've not had the car back so I can test.

1781cc · #2 28th November 2016, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo Tony

Hmm... I have the same problem on my car and I'm watching this thread with interest.

Audi think it was caused by a faulty EPB motor. It's been changed now but I've not had the car back so I can test.

You still don't have a car?

Turbo Tony · #3 28th November 2016, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1781cc

You still don't have a car?

Nope. I don't want to hijack this thread but Audi have been chasing a ridiculously minor knocking sound for a grand total of 13 weeks. I've called them today for an update and I'm waiting for them to get back to me.

Delboy · #4 28th November 2016, 06:55 PM

There's many faults in there. I'd suspect quite a few of them are old and related to low battery but the one that jumps out to me is the over temp of the air compressor.

That tells me you quite possibly have a leak in the suspension somewhere. If there is a leak then the suspension will be trying to level it's self periodically while your away from the car.

I don't know however if it will run the compressor or just use what's in the accumulator.

The other thing that jumps out is the instrument cluster fault. It's vague but I have seen on two occasions now where a faulty cluster keeps the can bus awake while the car is locked and that flattens the battery.

You can easily tell if the can bus is awake by looking to see if the lights around the gear shift are lit up at night when the car has been locked for more than 10 mins

Oli18 · #5 18th December 2016, 05:32 AM

ainarssems - I did have the ignition on. I will check that battery voltage later this morning which may give a clue and let you know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Delboy

There's many faults in there. I'd suspect quite a few of them are old and related to low battery but the one that jumps out to me is the over temp of the air compressor.

That tells me you quite possibly have a leak in the suspension somewhere. If there is a leak then the suspension will be trying to level it's self periodically while your away from the car.

I don't know however if it will run the compressor or just use what's in the accumulator.

The other thing that jumps out is the instrument cluster fault. It's vague but I have seen on two occasions now where a faulty cluster keeps the can bus awake while the car is locked and that flattens the battery.

You can easily tell if the can bus is awake by looking to see if the lights around the gear shift are lit up at night when the car has been locked for more than 10 mins

Hi Delboy,

I can confirm that gearshift lights do not remain on.

After a few days though, the suspension does sit lower and it always needs to raise itself first. I've always had this for as long as I can remember but never had any suspension lights on.

How could I check if I have a leak?

Cheers guys.

Oli

Delboy · #6 18th December 2016, 10:50 AM

There's a couple of ways of approaching air leak diagnostics.

The quick check would be jack up the corner that sags the most and let the strut drop down and lift back up the strut again to see if you can hear air leak out. You can try spraying the strut and pipe work with soapy water but results vary.

The passenger side has the valve block tucked up in the arch and it has been seen a few times to have leaking connections so worth spraying it too.

If nothing jumps out at you you could use a valve to isolate the strut to see if it drops over time.

See the reply from Jef in the link to see components and process.

http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthre...eding-Charging

Oli18 · #7 18th December 2016, 04:00 PM

Thanks Del!..I don't believe that i have any one corner that drops vs another but will do some more checking over the coming week.

That said, i got in the car this morning and did a quick test on the battery again with VCDS before turning the ignition on...12.1V and when i started her, it was so much better than with the old battery.

I am hoping that i may be lucky and it was the battery that was due to be replaced. That said, i'm going to keep an eye out on any further drains, particularly after a few more days of sitting idle.

Thanks,

Oli