Erratic throttle response when cold

[steamship]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Thanks Sean.
Having just reread (all earlier in this thread) what you did I might just try adjusting it; maybe it is just a bit too sensitive at the moment so not always freeing up properly after gentle braking?

What is required to adjust it, do you just loosen the locking nut and turn it?
I assume from the diagrams I've seen that it's "above" the pedal so would need screwing "down" towards it to ensure it was in the "no braking" position.

I saw that MJ said something about it being possible to fit it in the wrong position, but was that and orientation issue or just how far in/out it was because of the two separate switches?

Finally found what I was looking for... back on post #240

All I did to adjust it was disconnect it from the loom and then turn it clockwise half a turn. Plugged it back in, and then followed the instructions provided by yourself and MJ. As you say, because of its position, you need to screw it down, and the comment by MJ was to do with how far in (or not) it was.

That's what got me, as I just thought it was a simple on/off style switch for the lights, and not a two part one with info going to some ECU.

Limber up before you attempt it.

[HPsauce]

It sounds like half a turn in/down is well worth trying for me, looks like that would be about 1mm. Does the drivers knee panel need to come off to get at it?

Now I've eliminated issues due to the F125 switch this (now much rarer) problem is all that's left to resolve. It's certainly consistent with all the symptoms you and others have described, probably due to a "hair trigger" brake switch.

It's going to be freezing for the next few days, so might have to wait, simple though it sounds to do and check.

[steamship]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Does the drivers knee panel need to come off to get at it?

You definitely need the knee panel off. I also took off the ventilation piping to the drivers door, although I was mucking around with other stuff as well at the time. Can't remember if the switch is accessible with it in place or not. Simply to remove though. Pull out towards you from extreme right side where it connects, and then pull gently to the right to free it from the central unit.

[HPsauce]

Thanks Sean. I think I've had that piping out before; sounds familiar.

[HPsauce]

I see the F125 gremlin has stuck Neil as well!
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showpost....8&postcount=15

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by steamship

You definitely need the knee panel off. I also took off the ventilation piping to the drivers door

Well I'm struggling to do that.
Knee panel off OK, then took the fuse cover panel off as well as it seemed to be in the way (looking again it probably isn't in fact).
Gave the piping a wiggle and it felt fixed; had a good look and found a torx bolt underneath towards the right hand end so removed it.

But it's still going nowhere! Can't find any more fixings and it now wiggles, but it just seems to be very securely pushed into the vertical pipe that goes down to floor level, presumably to feed the rear.
Any tips from anyone how to get it out? This is the ventilation pipe joint just inboard (and forward) of the bonnet release. It is very cold today so the plastics are stiff, but is it likely to have been glued?

Or do the carpets need to come out to disconnect the downpipe at its lower end?

[MikkiJayne]

Its a complete arse to get that piece out. I would recommend taking the centre console side trim off first, partly because it makes access a little easier, and partly because it prevents the air duct snapping off that little tab on the trim when it comes out with a bang (guess who just did exactly that?)

It does need some force to get it off. I tend to push it towards the centre of the car and disconnect the outer end first, then it can be wiggled out of position.

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

partly because it prevents the air duct snapping off that little tab on the trim when it comes out with a bang

That flimsy tab on the transmission tunnel trim (to support the drivers knee panel) is long gone on my car.
It was wrecked many years ago by someone installing a carphone kit so I just removed it totally. I also cut back both of those side panels (out of sight at the top/front) to improve access for various cables I want to run to the RNS so the ventilation duct is actually well clear now.
I've replaced it with a small metal bracket on one of the small downward vents from the ventilation duct; works remarkably well.
(See here: http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showpost....5&postcount=13 you can probably see that the trim panel is cut back too)
I'll post some decent pictures of it if I ever get the swine out! IIRC I used a metal filler strip from a PC case backplane to make the bracket.

Back to the duct itself; just brute force and ignorance, once the fixing screw/bolt is removed, to free the right hand end? Maybe jam a screwdriver in between the two sections to try to prise it out?

[Goran]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

That said, the V8 D2s do have overly sensitive throttle pedals IMO, making it hard to pull away at any setting thats not 'Driving Miss Daisy' or 'Scalded Cat'. My V6 A4 wasn't like that, but that was manual. The V6 D2 may be programmed just the same as the V8s in that regard.

Lol, this is a perfect description of D2 throttle response
When I let my brother drive my old S8 it gave him a real scare, he was used to a more usual progressive pedal

[steamship]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Well I'm struggling to do that.
Knee panel off OK, then took the fuse cover panel off as well as it seemed to be in the way (looking again it probably isn't in fact).
Gave the piping a wiggle and it felt fixed; had a good look and found a torx bolt underneath towards the right hand end so removed it.

But it's still going nowhere! Can't find any more fixings and it now wiggles, but it just seems to be very securely pushed into the vertical pipe that goes down to floor level, presumably to feed the rear.
Any tips from anyone how to get it out? This is the ventilation pipe joint just inboard (and forward) of the bonnet release. It is very cold today so the plastics are stiff, but is it likely to have been glued?

Or do the carpets need to come out to disconnect the downpipe at its lower end?

Definitely don't need the carpets out, as you use these to rest your head on whilst fiddling with the switch

Can't think of why they would be glued, but you never know what some people do. From what I remember, the pipe has a ribbed edge which slots inside the other pipe which has a corresponding ribbed edge.

I suppose if the plastics are stiff, how about running the heating at full tilt for a while, and then trying it.