2006 Audi A8 4.2 TDI - Project Thread

[Architex_mA8tey]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

I think it needs to move in the bushes so you cannot glue it in but you could try rubber friendly grease to stop creaking.

On the D2 they are separate bushes which you can replace really cheaply but in the D3 they are all bonded in to the one bar and you replace the whole lot

[goldsax]

hi can i please ask about the Delta Mics hub centric wheel spacers from earlier on in this thread.
can you please advise me exactly the size and where you bought these from. do you get the bolts with it?
many thanks
raj

ps any negative aspect to these items?

[Oli18]

Originally Posted by goldsax

hi can i please ask about the Delta Mics hub centric wheel spacers from earlier on in this thread.
can you please advise me exactly the size and where you bought these from. do you get the bolts with it?
many thanks
raj

ps any negative aspect to these items?

They are great and would highly recommend them. I have not experienced any issues so far.

I chose the Type10 2x20mm:

http://www.prosportperformance.co.uk/audispacers.htm

The bolts all come with it!

I also did the same on my old silver D2 (see link in my signature) using the H&R setup...they are slightly lighter in weight but a bit pricier. The D2 looks really nice with the 2x20mm and d3 FE wheels IMO...the D3 could take another 5mm I reckon on both sides but at the detriment of faster suspension wear potentially.

Oli

Originally Posted by Oli18

Before and afters:

Originally Posted by Oli18

Before and after shots below....

Oli

[goldsax]

many thanks for the pics and info Oli..
will call Prosport on Tuesday to get price and order.
cheers raj

[ainarssems]

Originally Posted by Architex_mA8tey

On the D2 they are separate bushes which you can replace really cheaply but in the D3 they are all bonded in to the one bar and you replace the whole lot

I know that they come in one piece for D3. I was just responding to snapdragons idea of sliding the bar in bushes and putting some glue on the bar. The bar needs to turn as you go up and down either in the bushes or the bushes in the cups and it's more likely to be bar turning because surface are is smaller for bush to bar than bush to cup. I don't think there is enough rubber to allow enough twist in it considering that you can change height on D3 as well so it will probably rip off glue pretty soon. If you can slide the bar to side and put some graphite or moly greasy on it it should stop creaking. CV joint moly grease should be OK as it is friendly to CV joint rubber boots. Or perhaps use after-market poly bushes if available or get them custom made, I think they also use graphite, copper or similar grease for them to stop noises.

[snapdragon]

Yeah, I know what you mean. With the old one, I disconnected the ARB links and could turn twist the bar in the bushes with no effort and slide it back and forth longitudanally if I twisted it at the same time. While doing this it would creak and I could feel the 'judder' through the bar like when you drag a damp finger on glass.
I remember now, I used some of that white waterproof grease designed for car door hinges, not silicone.
It became quiet for a few months and then started again and then started knocking (as Architex's) when traversing ridges such as speed ramps or drop kerbs at a slight angle. I didn't realise it was the ARB causing this knock until I had already replaced all 8 control arms and then taking it to Nottingham Audi who on the day of the appointment had concierges with earpeices in the carpark who greeted me and already knew who I was and called through on their mic' for a technician to come in the car park to ask for a demo which I thought was very professional. He knew what it was almost straightaway.

[Oli18]

Hi,

Thanks for the tips on the ARB...i'll keep a look out

Now that the car's paint and suspension are all in order, i've been meaning to give the leather a good detail. With that in mind, i took the rear bench out and went to town with cleaner and leather conditioner on all seats....it makes such a difference!

I even found 2 pens, 35p and 20 euro cents

Oli

[Delboy]

Have you replaced that front seat, it looks like new?

[Oli18]

Originally Posted by Delboy

Have you replaced that front seat, it looks like new?

Hi Delboy - they've just had a good clean

Over time, leather seats get a real 'shine' to them as a tiny film of oils from clothes and skin forms over them. I like my leather non-shiney like it was when it cam out of the factory and so giving it a really good clean and conditioning it every once in a while should keep them looking great. There is a really nice video by AMMO NYC that goes into some nice methods on how to clean leather seats depending on how much gear you've got (microfibre only to machine polishing clean and steam cleaning):

https://youtu.be/4Bd_IqK5ydU

The driver's and front passenger's seats have wear marks on the door-side bolsters from getting in an out over the years. It was there when i got it and have been quoted about £150 to get it refurbished. It's on the to-do list but at the moment it's 'ok' enough not to keep me up at night.

Oli

[Lee S]

There is no real need to "condition" modern leather as it is coated with a sprayed on dye that forms a "skin" over the top. All conditioner will do is add to the "shine and grime". Just a gentle clean is enough. Had this been a 1954 Alvis then that's another story....