WITW - Andrew's Irish Green

[steamship]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Pull the bushing out with a couple of magnetic pick-up tools

Does it come out that easily?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Cleaned up ready for the new seal

Is that part number 077115147A (radial shaft seal), as it seems to be from the old ETKA diagram?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

All done

Is there a part number for the seal or do you reuse it? Also, does it matter that it's the other way around (text stamped on it but not on photo further up)?

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Torque the new sprocket bolt to 200Nm + 180°, then put the new belt kit on

How do you torque it up to that crazy figure?

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by steamship

Does it come out that easily?

Is that part number 077115147A (radial shaft seal), as it seems to be from the old ETKA diagram?

Is there a part number for the seal or do you reuse it? Also, does it matter that it's the other way around (text stamped on it but not on photo further up)?

How do you torque it up to that crazy figure?

Usually yes. Its clamped between the crank sprocket and oil pump sprocket, so with the crank sprocket removed its basically just a fat washer with some oil film and the oil seal holding it in place. The trick is to pull it off straight. If you pull on one side it binds on the crank and won't come off, hence the two magnet sticks

Yes

The bushing has to be flipped around when replacing the seal so the new seal runs on a new surface, as the old one wears a groove in to the steel. The writing on the front is an imprint from the oil pump sprocket, which was on the back. In theory you'd probably need to replace it by the time the engine is on its 3rd seal, but we probably won't be allowed to burn dino squeezings any more by the time that comes around anyway.

Well, I like my food and I have a long bar 200Nm on a decent torque wrench is easy enough. I then use a 1M breaker bar and do two turns of 90° (I mark the bolt after 200Nm). The engine would simply flip over on to the floor with that much torque so I stand on one leg of the engine stand and push the bar away from me to keep all the effort in the one system.

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The writing on the front is an imprint from the oil pump sprocket, which was on the back.

I noticed the "mirror writing" but didn't think about why! Now we know.
Edit: Looking at picture 4 of 12 above you can see where it came from!

[MikkiJayne]

Sunday's update on Monday. Mike came over and we did the gearbox service and reseal.

Clean sump pan, although the magnets are in the wrong places.



Not much magnet fluff which is good.



Sump off and filter removed



Prime the oil pump inlet



The left output flange was leaking badly



This is held in place with a bearing and circlip



Press tool to spread the load while pushing the shaft out



It sits in the vice like this



Pushed out. I can swap the seal and bearing, then put it back together



New F125



Engine and box back together



This evening I cleaned up and refitted the wiring harness and coolant hoses

[MikkiJayne]

The aircon pump pulley bearing is worn out and grumbly but I've had enough of replacing compressors just for this, with all the faff around emptying and refilling the system. So, replace the bearing...

The pulley is just held on with a circlip so slides off easily enough





The bearing is pressed in and then staked to make sure it doesn't come out



The usual contrivance of round chunks to push the old bearing out



and to push the new one in



This can be swapped for the one on the car after the engine is back in



I pressure washed the subframe. Its in very good condition with a little surface rust



I'll clean most of this with a wire wheel and then paint with rustoleum

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

The aircon pump pulley bearing is worn out and grumbly but I've had enough of replacing compressors just for this, with all the faff around emptying and refilling the system. So, replace the bearing...

I thought I'd replied to this a while back, but it disappeared.
Wonderful problem solving there on the bearing.
And pleased to see the subframe is better than I expected (and the MOT advised?)
Out of interest which exact Rustoleum product do you use?

I also note re the leaking output shaft that I'm not alone.... http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=16666
And I remember the horrid smell of that stuff dripping onto the exhaust!

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by HPsauce

And pleased to see the subframe is better than I expected (and the MOT advised?)
Out of interest which exact Rustoleum product do you use?

Combicolor:



Working on the uprights today. Start by cutting the top arms and tie rod end off to make access easier.



The bolt was obviously seized so I snapped the head off and started jacking the stump out using the nut instead



Keep adding washes and spacers until its almost out



The remains



This is where the insert came out. Someone has attempted to break the taper by hitting it with a hammer, as is often the case, and bruised the aluminium housing which has distorted the hole slightly, loosening the pressed-in insert.



Cleaned up with the rotary tool



Loctite 638 to hold the insert in permanently



Bolted in place overnight while the loctite sets up



The other upright was not so cooperative and the bolt snapped at both ends, so I'm going to have to drill that out tomorrow